Village Bezvodno - Riben Dol - Village Planinsko - Hunting Lodge "Akva Tepe" - Krastova Gora
Approximate Duration: 4 days
Season for Visit: Spring, Early Summer
Difficulty: Medium
Highlights: Waterfall, Stone Houses and Old Hamlets, Wildlife, Scenic Views
KML Track: Bezvodno - Krastova Gora
Day 1: Transportation to Village Bezvodno and Overnight Stay Nearby
We arrive at Village Bezvodno in the early afternoon. The drive from Sofia takes about 4 hours. The route passes through Asenovgrad, heading towards Kardzhali to the village of Komuniga. There, a turn-off from the main road leads to a narrow asphalt road with many curves, covering the final 25 km in about an hour. Since much of the first day is spent traveling, don’t hesitate to take breaks and enjoy the views. The stretch between the villages of Komuniga and Bezvodno is particularly picturesque, featuring Asar Kaya and the Kazal Cherpa Reserve near the village of Zhenda.
From the end of the asphalt road in Village Bezvodno, we take a marked trail for about 30 minutes to reach the top of the large waterfall above the village. We leave our backpacks in the car. After the last houses, the trail becomes steep, but the incline soon lessens, and we follow a more gradual path along the cliff edge until we reach the waterfall. To the left, several spots offer views of the entire waterfall.
We decide to explore the area further. Following the marked trail to the upper end of the waterfall, we cross the river and take a lovely circular walk. On the opposite side of the waterfall, from the top of the cliffs, there are stunning views not only of the 30-meter-high cascade but also of the village, the surrounding hamlets, and much of this beautiful part of the Rhodope Mountains.
After the walk, we return to the car to retrieve our luggage. We bid farewell to the person who drove us, with an agreement to be picked up later at Krastova Gora, though the exact time will be arranged later.
This day involves only a short hike with our backpacks—just over a kilometer from the center of Bezvodno to the hamlet of Bozva. A dozen old stone houses are nestled at around 1,000 meters above sea level on the eastern slope connecting the Doto Teppe and Yanak Arman ridges. Smoke rises from the chimney of one house. The hamlet is not abandoned; life still thrives here!
We camp near the last houses. My friends pitch a tent, while I choose to sleep in a sleeping bag on a bench under the porch of an abandoned house. In the evening, a brief rain enhances the beauty of the views. The moon shines brightly at night, and the air is pleasantly cool and fresh.
Day 2: Village Bezvodno - Village Planinsko
The day starts before sunrise with a walk in the area and photography. This is followed by a leisurely breakfast. We set off on our journey around 11 a.m. Climbing to the ridge, we turn right towards Doto Teppe. There is no trail marking. The trail we follow does not fully match the one on the map. We hesitate a few times and check the GPS. Eventually, we simply follow the terrain and trails roughly aligned with our direction. After Doto Teppe, a slanting descent through the forest leads to a crossroads with a larger trail coming from the right. Our route turns left. The trail becomes clearer as it descends a long lateral ridge, taking us down to the riverbed of Balak Dere (Riben Dol).
The river valley looks wild and very beautiful. We head upstream, where a well-defined path is visible to the right (in our direction of movement). The walk is very pleasant, with a gentle ascent. We take frequent breaks in the shade under the riverside trees.
The sun begins to blaze, and it gets hot. We stop for lunch among the cherry trees in the yard of an abandoned school near the river, not far from the small bridge. A little later, we cross to the opposite bank and start ascending towards the Ribben Dol hamlet.
After Ribben Dol, we continue along a dirt road leading to the asphalt road between the villages of Planinsko and Zagrajden. We gain elevation—from 800 meters above sea level in the Ribben Dol basin to 1300 meters above sea level where the dirt road meets the asphalt. We stop to fill our water bottles at a fountain and turn right onto the road, heading towards Planinsko. This marks the most unpleasant part of our hike for the day—at dusk, we walk for a long time on asphalt, unsure of where we will camp for the night.
Note: At home after the trip, I saw on the map that there is an alternative route with less climbing and no asphalt walking. At the first sharp turn after Ribben Dol, a branch of the dirt road veers off, winding roughly horizontally through the rocky terrain and leading straight to Planinsko. Taking this path would save not only unnecessary climbing but also the unpleasant asphalt walk.
The village of Planinsko itself is not a good choice for an overnight stay. There are a few recently built houses, but the air seems to carry a sense of unfriendliness. Otherwise, the views are pleasant and everything, but we don't see any people.
Eventually, near the village, we find a relatively flat spot to pitch two tents. The weather soon takes a turn. During the night, a strong, cold wind blows, followed by rain. Rain and icy hail pour onto the tent covers. It's April, and I've brought a tent without a zipper at the entrance—clearly designed for hot summer beaches. The wind enters as if it owns the place. Inside, rain begins to trickle in. The memory of the heat earlier in the day quickly fades. In vain, I try to stick together the two pieces of fabric at the entrance with duct tape strips wrapped around the tripod legs. Whenever I manage to secure them, the first strong gust quickly separates them again. Soon, I give up my futile efforts. I have to find a way to sleep. I tuck my legs, sleeping bag, and backpack together to keep the wind out and stay somewhat dry for a while longer. Exhaustion and cold lull me to sleep as I think it's time for a new, good tent...
Day Three: Planinsko Village - Aqua Tepe Lodge
In the morning, the landscape around us is covered in snow. It's cloudy, gray, and cold. My sleeping bag, backpack, and tent are all wet and coated with a layer of ice. I'm cold and want to start a fire. I gather wood, then build a fire pit with some stones. Of course, the wood is wet, but with patience, I dry and ignite small twigs on the gas stove, eventually starting a proper fire. Ah, warmth! Meanwhile, my friends, who have a proper (even winter) tent with side skirts, know nothing of my heroic fire-starting efforts. They've slept warmly and are now in the mood for coffee. Rosa, who's from Spain, isn't too thrilled about the snow and cold, and she's wearing sneakers. After all, it's 30 degrees Celsius in Spain at this time of year :)
Unlike the leisurely pace of the previous morning, today we quickly pack up and set off. From Planinsko, a dirt road continues to the valley of the Belishka River and the village of Belitsa (I’m unsure if it’s still unpaved; it wasn’t the last time, but “progress” never rests). We walk along it for about an hour until a trail from Mount Freedom (part of the E-8 route) joins from the left.
Finally, there’s a trail marker to follow. Half a kilometer further, we leave the dirt road and descend to a narrow saddle separating the valleys of the Belishka River and Hambar Dere. This is followed by an ascent that I remember as scenic from a previous trip, though today the view is hidden behind low, gray clouds. Our feet are wet, and while we have enough time to reach Krastova Gora today, the prospect of a whole day in the cold doesn't appeal to anyone. The mood in our small group is rather somber—only the dog seems truly excited. That’s why today’s hike ends at Aqua Tepe.
The Aqua Tepe hunting lodge is a solid two-story building clad in wood. The upper floor is locked, with one room available for use on the lower floor. The fountain out front barely trickles. We gather wood and light the stove to dry ourselves properly. Outside remains gray and unwelcoming until night falls.
Day Four: Aqua Tepe Lodge - Krastova Gora
We continue towards Krastova Gora, nearing the end of our journey. The sun seems like it might break through, but it’s still gloomy and cold. We walk in two groups: my two friends ahead at a slightly faster pace and me trailing behind, stopping often to take pictures and then catching up.
I’m impressed by the view of Karadjov Kamak. I’ve visited this landmark twice while writing an article about it, but the perspective from the trail between Krastova Gora and Aqua Tepe is new to me. The full grandeur of the rocks and how they fit into the landscape is visible.
In Krastova Gora, from the little I manage to see before dropping our heavy backpacks and ordering pretzels and beer from the shop, I get the impression of a place ruined by tourism. I love sacred places, but only when they’ve preserved their authenticity and can serve as a bridge to lost mindsets, beliefs, and spiritual quests. The same sacred places, overtaken by tourism and greed for money, almost always become meaningless, kitschy copies of themselves.